The Preliminary Journey

After sitting in the middle seat for 8.5 hours on a plane, unable to sleep more than 20 minutes, I finally touched down in Dakar, Senegal. Up until that point everything seemed surreal but my first views of my new continent made my heart race as I looked onto stretches of sand empty but for a few scraggly trees and periodic patches of brown grass. We were let off the plane on the tarmac, loaded onto a small tram and transported to the airport – a single story building with 4 conveyor belts – no air conditioning, no fans, no trashcans and coed toilettes with a limited supply of toilet paper. Bienvenue a l’Afrique!
After collecting the entire pile of luggage from the conveyor belts, luckily none was lost enroute, we boarded 2 luxury buses and began the journey North to Mauritania. We left Dakar at 0600 and expected to arrive in Rosso around 1200, pending no complications…
As we traveled the landscape grew bleaker, less trees and significantly less green colored landscape; however, goats, donkeys and cattle took the place of any vegetation as they roamed freely among trash piles, sand dunes and small villages. Many locals stopped, stared and/or waved as we moved past. I slept a little, a disturbed and uncomfortable sleep slouched forward with my head against the seat in front of me, nonetheless it was needed after the previous 18 hours of hurrying up and waiting. Our trip North was fairly uneventful except for a few delays in Senegal due to other people, animals, carts, etc being in the road and the fact that roads were barely wide enough for two cars to pass causing people to slow down substantially (or move off the road into the sand) in order to pass another vehicle. The bus trip totaled approximately 8.5 hours, several hours longer than expected, and also included a ferry ride across the Senegal River into Mauritania on a ferry that I was not sure could hold 4 cars and 2 luxury buses full of Americans with unimaginably heavy luggage (at least 2 per person). Luckily, we made it safely across although I am really not sure how, Inshallah … Nonetheless, we are here, safe and sound – tired, but enthusiastic to begin training.
The entire Peace Corps staff stood outside to greet us with smiles, welcomes and handshakes (although not culturally appropriate between members of the opposite sex). Bags were unladed, tours were performed and lunch was served – rice base with a river fish, potatoes, eggplant and carrots. Over lunch, questions were answered, introductions were made, bathroom demonstrations were performed. Within hours real life in Africa had begun. 2 shots followed along with a lot of free time consisting of relaxing and lounging as well as games of soccer and catch with locals. Most importantly, we were given the opportunity to purchase cell phones which will allow us to maintain connected to the world we have left behind, crucial with the possibility that internet will be scarce once I leave Rosso in 10 weeks. My number is 011 222 420 3965 and incoming calls are free for me although outgoing to the states are astropnomical.
Dinner was served at 2030 and consisted of tasty couscous base with carrots, onions, raisins and beans as well as goat. Meals are quite the experience because all the food is served on a communal platter and is eaten by all members of the family and visiting friends with the right hand. Before the meal, all those present wash their hands thoroughly with soap and water, paying careful attention to the cleanliness of the right hand. Every meal begins by saying, “Bismillah,” which means “a beginning in the name of Allah.” Food is eaten by using your right hand to form the base into balls that are then eaten in one bite. Meat, fish and vegetables are all gathered in the middle and shared between all eaters throughout the meal. Proper etiquette states that when eating imagine that there is a “pie slice” in front of you that goes to a point in the middle of the bowl and eat only that which is within your “slice.” Often your host will toss chunks of meat or vegetables in fro not you in order to encourage guests to eat more of the choice pieces of food.
After dinner, mosquito nets and sleeping mats were moved outside into the courtyard creating a small shanty town looking area and many people began to shower and change for sleep. Because of the Muslim society, women are expected to keep their shoulders and legs covered at all times except when covered by a sheet in one’s own bed. Thus, I remained wearing my skirt until I was fully covered in my personal sheet lying under the stars.
I slept soundly, and will never forget to be thankful for the ability to sleep horizontal after all the traveling and attempts at sleeping upright, until 0530 when city wide calls to prayer begin. The loud rhythmic chanting is fascinating but extremely frustrating when it awakens you before dawn. And with the chanting ringing in my ears, I got up and prepared to begin my second day in the Islamic Republic of Mauritania.